DISCUSSION: Removing a wing

Irreparable damage can be done to the wings and center spar if the wing is allowed to twist or suspend after the three attach bolts are loostened.

You need two helpers, three would be better.

The helper at the wing tip; Keep the wing lined up straight, i.e. up/down at the wing tip. You'll need to rock up and down slightly when it comes time to remove the wing.

The helper at the leading edge, positioned at the wing/strake junction. Keep the wing straight, i.e. the wing leading edge up/down. keep lined up with the strake. Use your hand/fingers to hold the wing leading edge against the strake leading edge.

1) With the helpers in position.

2) Remove cowling

3) Inside the engine compartment, disconnect the rudder cable. If the disconnect has multiple holes (for adjustment) make a note of which hole the cable is in. With the thimble removed, reassemble all the hardware on the cable so it won't get lost.

         

4) Remove the aileron push rod. The push rod runs along the back of the Centerspar, between the wing and the fuselage control bellhorn. It may have a Disconnect in it, if so, then disconnect at this fitting. If not, try removing at the attach point where the control tube from the bellhorn where it comes through the fire wall. NOTE: The LongEZ in the photos doesn't have aileron disconnects. If it did, they would be located as shown in the photos.

NOTE: If the pushtube is disconnected at the fuselage bellcrank, EXTREME caution needs to exercised when moving the wing from the bolts. Its easy to catch the push tube on engine components and bend the tube.

5) Using two 3/4 inch socket wrenches, remove the nuts from the three attach bolts. This is a very critical stage when the wing is vulnerable to damage; The helper at the wing tip needs to hold the wing tip steady, both UP/DOWN and FORWARD/ BACKWARD. The helper at the leading edge needs to hold the wing leading edge even and lined up with the strake leading edge. The inboard bolt can be accessed from inside the back seat by reaching into the centerspar. A helper will need to take the nut off from the outside. The two outboard bolts can be reached through an access hole in the bottom of the strake.

IMPORTANT - Loosten all of the nuts by 1 or two turns first, then go back and completely remove the nuts.

The nuts can be reached from above and below Once the nuts are removed, do the following

6) If the helpers rock slightly, i.e. 1 or 2 inches up/down AND forward/backward at the wing tip, and 1 inch up/down at the leading edge, the wing will slide straight back. IMPORTANT: When the wing has slid back a inch or two, everybody stop and hold perfectly still. Using a flashlight, reach up between the wing and the center spar with a scribe, Count the number of washer on each bolt, ALSO make a note if they are thick or thin washers. Draw a diagram that shows the location of these washers, these need to be put back exactly in the same locations when reassemble. These washers shim the wing for correct trim when flying. Verify that the aileron control tube is clear.

7) With a third helper at the trailing edge, continue to pull the wing back, you may need to continue with the gentle rocking. (The helper at the wing strake needs to give direction to the wing tip helper for wing tip FORWARD/BACKWARD movement.)

8) When the wing is clear of the bolts, STOP. Go to the Wing/Strake junction and disconnect any wires, Antenna, strobe, etc. Reverify that the aileron tube, rudder cable, and everything else is clear. Be careful with the aileron control tube.

9) Set the wing on the ground, Locate all the shim washers. do a count and make sure they are accounted for. account for all bolts and nuts before relocating the wing.

Reassemble in reverse order.

Good Luck

Waiter

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